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Pashmina is unmistakable for
its softness. Although pure Pashmina is expensive, sometimes blending it with
rabbit fur or with wool brings down the cost. It is on Pashmina shawls that
Kashmir's most exquisite embroidery is worked, sometimes the entire surface,
earning the name of "Jamawar." Not all pashmina shawls have such lavish work
done on them; some are embroidered on a narrow panel bordering all four sides,
others in narrow strips running diagonally through the shawl.
Shahtoosh is the legendary 'ring shawl', renowned for its lightness, softness
and warmth. The astronomical price it commands in the market is due to the
scarcity of raw material. High in the plateaus of Tibet and the eastern part of
Ladakh, at an altitude of above 5,000 meters, roam the Tibetan antelope. During grazing, a few strands of the downy hair from the
throat are shed and it is these, which are painstakingly collected by the locals
until there are enough for a shawl.
Yarn is spun either from Shahtoosh alone, or with Pashmina to bring down the
cost. In the case of pure Shahtoosh too, there are many qualities - the yarn can
be spun so skillfully as to resemble a strand of silk. Not only are shawls made
from such fine yarn extremely expensive, they can only be loosely woven and are
too flimsy for embroidery to be done on them. Unlike woolen or Pashmina shawls,
Shahtoosh is seldom dyed. Its natural color is mousy brown, and it is
embroidered sparsely or allover in the 'Jamawar' fashion.
Needle-embroidered ('sozni') Pashmina shawls usually cost in the range 600 to
3,000 USD depending on whether the embroidery is sparse or covering the entre
surface of the shawl (Jamawar type). Kaani Jamawars, in which the embroidery pattern results from weaving
on a handloom, cost far more than needle-embroidered Pashmina Jamawars; usually
in excess of US$ 5,000. |