Crewel work is a hand-embroidery technique traditionally done in Kashmir. It uses a hook (locally "Aari") for embroidery and is usually worked on a thick cotton "dusooti" fabric using wool and silk yarns, producing vibrant and colorful motifs. Crewel Fabrics are strong and long lasting and known to last decades if cared for properly.
Crewel embroidery is of two types:
1-ply embroidery: A single ply wool yarn is used for this type of embroidery, the lower yarn cost results in a cheaper fabric.
2-ply embroidery: Using a 2-ply wool yarn for embroidery, it is costlier but more durable adding to the life of the fabric. The finer wools (and smaller stitches) give these fabrics a neat and uncluttered appearance in comparison to 1ply embroidered fabrics.
THE PROCESS: The crewel making process begins with the selection of a design - "Tree of Life", "Jacobean" and "Maple" are some of the most commonly used designs. Custom designs whether traditional, modern or geometric can be custom-made.
DESIGN: The designer initially makes a rough sketch on a 56" wide (or different width depending on the width of fabric to be printed) translucent paper long enough to accommodate at least one pattern repeat and wide enough to cover the entire fabric width. Once the process is finished, he will then punch holes following the design path, correcting any deviations using skill and experience to complete the design.
PRINTING: Once the design is ready, the pattern sheet is placed on an already laid out fabric and an ink soaked cloth (preferably woolen yarn as it soaks less ink) is wiped all over the design so that the ink seeps through the tiny holes in the design sheet to cast a nice and clean imprint on the fabric underneath.
The process is repeated by removing the pattern sheet and placing it just below the end of the earlier print to ensure design continuity. The designer will continue this process till the entire length of fabric is printed. During this time the designer will soak the cloth multiple times as and when the ink runs out. A 33 yard length of fabric uses upto 200 grams worth of ink to print a Tree of Life design. Once the process is complete, the fabric is rolled back full width to avoid any (not yet dried) ink from casting duplicate prints on the fabric.
EMBROIDERY: The printed fabric goes to the craftsman next, where the design will slowly start taking shape. Over the next few weeks, colorful greens, blues and reds will give the fabric a rich, vibrant and lively feel bringing the design to life.
Embroidery work takes the bulk of time in crewel fabric manufacture. The other processes of printing a design and washing are completed within days. For example, a 20 yard length of fabric embroidered in the "Tree of Life" design usually takes 10 to 12 weeks to finish.
WASHING: Once the fabric is done embroidering, it will be sent to the washers for thorough cleaning. The fabric is sun dried and takes one or two days to dry completely. Washing in the winters is particularly difficult and fabrics take longer to dry as the weather is cold. The fabric is finally steam ironed giving a nice crease-free fabric ready for use in any home decor project.
CARE: Crewel Embroidery needs proper care and handling as it is a delicate art. Over time the fabric may need to be washed. We always suggest professional dry cleaning to avoid color bleed. White on white fabrics can be safely washed at home in a washing machine (using cold water).
USES: Crewel fabric finds many uses in home decor projects - Curtains, Blinds, Bedspreads, Pillowcases, Shams, Wall Hangings and other soft furnishings. You can also order your special custom embroidered fabric from us, made exactly as per your requirements.