Crewel work is a hand-embroidery technique traditionally done in Kashmir. It uses a hook (locally "Aari") for embroidery and is usually worked on a thick cotton "dusooti" fabric using wool and silk yarns, producing vibrant and colorful motifs. Crewel Fabrics are long lasting and can last decades if cared for properly.
Crewel embroidery is of two types:
1-ply embroidery: A single ply wool yarn is used for this type of embroidery, the lower yarn cost results in a cheaper fabric.
2-ply embroidery: Using a 2-ply wool yarn for embroidery, it is costlier but more durable adding to the life of the fabric. The finer wools (and smaller stitches) give these fabrics a neat and uncluttered appearance in comparison to 1ply embroidered fabrics.
THE PROCESS OF MAKING CREWEL FABRIC: The crewel making process begins with the selection of a design - "Tree of Life", "Jacobean" and "Maple" are some of the most commonly used designs. Custom designs whether traditional, modern or geometric can be custom-made.
DESIGN: The designer initially makes a rough sketch on a 56" wide (or different width depending on the width of fabric to be printed) translucent paper long enough to accommodate at least one pattern repeat but wide enough to cover the entire fabric width. Once the process is finished, he will then punch holes following the design sketch, correcting any deviations using skill and experience to perfect the design for the next step.
PRINTING: Once the design is ready, the pattern sheet is placed on an already laid out fabric and an ink soaked cloth (preferably woolen yarn as it soaks less ink) is wiped all over the design so that the ink seeps through the tiny holes in the design sheet to cast a nice and clean imprint on the fabric underneath.
The process is repeated by removing the pattern sheet and placing it just below the end of the earlier print to ensure design continuity. The designer will continue this process till the entire length of fabric is printed. During this time the designer will soak the cloth multiple times as and when the ink runs out. A 33 yard length of fabric uses upto 200 grams worth of ink to print a Tree of Life design. Once the process is complete, the fabric is rolled back full width to avoid any (not yet dried) ink from casting duplicate prints on the fabric.
EMBROIDERY: The printed fabric will now make its journey to the craftsman where the design will slowly start coming to life. Over the next few weeks, colorful greens, blues and reds will give the fabric a rich, vibrant and a lively feel bringing the design to life.
Embroidery work is a slow-paced process and takes the bulk of time among the different processes involved in the manufacture of crewel fabrics. A 20 yard length of fabric embroidered in the "Tree of Life" design usually takes 10 to 12 weeks to complete.
WASHING: Once a fabric is done embroidering, it will be sent to the washers for a good bath removing dust and possible stains. The fabric is sun dried and takes one or two days to dry completely. Washing in the winters is particularly difficult considering the harsh weather during winters in Kashmir. The fabric is finally steam ironed in a roller ironing machine resulting in a nice crease-free fabric ready for use in your next project.
CARE: Crewel Embroidery is a delicate art and so has to be cared for properly. Over time the fabric may need to be washed. We always suggest professional dry cleaning to avoid color bleeding. White on white fabrics may be hand washed at home safely and spin dried in a washing machine.
USES: Crewel fabrics are used for many different projects - Curtains, Blinds, Bedspreads, Pillowcases and Shams, Wall Hangings and other soft furnishings. You can order your special fabric from our collection os have one custom-made exactly as pictured.